Surrey About It All 3 – round the corner

From Haxted (on Saturday), I walked south. The Tandridge Border Path was still my guide, just about all day. Here is farmland, without villages.

Please donate for the Stroke Association to keep me going.

I passed by some sites completely hidden – the remains of Starborough Castle are on one farm here, and a hill fort earthworks are indistinguishable from the path, but I was enjoying the walk to much to play antiquarian.

I then came to the end of Kent, and Surrey – the corner of the three counties, from where my path would be west along the long border of Sussex. It is a quiet spot, with a few houses just enjoying the view, and no dramatic anything, but three counties meet here and are content to do so.

I set off then westward, on a tree-shaded lane, now with the Sussex border. Soon the track comes off the road, where I was pleased to see I was being joined by the waymarks of the Sussex Border Path, and through Gotwick Manor Farm – whose name echoed the theme of the latter part of the day. On this path, I went across a footbridge into Sussex for a while. (Along here I met two dog-walkers who told a tale I had heard in the the county corner many years before and which had I recorded in my Part 2½ post: the prize fights which used to happen in Three Counties Field, that could hop across the border if the constables arrived.)

At a lane, I walked due north: by the brook (the Kent Water) which would bring me back into Surrey, a herd of fallow deer ran across the road; two holding back when they spotted me, only for the herd instinct to beat their fear. Across the brook is Old Surrey Hall, which I need to look up. It looks a grand, old house, and has a moat (a think I would love to have but for the midges they bring). The dog-walkers of earlier told me that it was where the pioneer of plastic surgery during the War cared for his patients. I did not want to disturb the householders though, and carried on westwards into the woods.

I emerged from the woods (after a slight diversion after taking the wrong path – there are several – and skirting fields, onto a road to greeted by signs welcoming me to East Grinstead. To that point, I had not met a single town or village on my route.I did not enter the town though, and hopped over a stile, cut off a loop and came back to the same road for a few hundred yards before the Sussex Border Path and Tandridge Border Way (working in tandem) led me down a broad track under the railway. The Tandridge route headed north on a path also waymarked “GMT” – the Greenwich Meridian Trail – past the edge of Dormans Park to Dormans Station, but I kept going west until the path leading south to the northernmost streets of East Grinstead – streets which are in Surrey.

The route dips in and out of the abodes of humanity along the county border; through Felbridge (a pleasant village), looping north around Hedgecourt Lake, to Copthorne, through which the border passes, and north to Burstow, with its pretty church and little else.

In this part of the walk, the presence of Gatwick Airport had become more and more pronounced. I was walking under the flightpath at times. After Burstow I entered those parts where all the ugly businesses are put that you get near airports, which are absolutely necessary and putting them here out of the way at least keeps them away from the eyes of all but those who seek them (and those of us happening to walk by). In a moment I was over the M23 and deep into the churned up landscape. A final run west, beside the motorway spur road, and I reached the railway line, where I called a halt to the day, and waked to find the B&B I had booked in Horley.

I will resume the next day in the next article. In the meantime, please donate for the Stroke Association.

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Surrey About It All 1.2

An urban day, mostly. A whirlwind of townscapes and landscapes, until I escaped into the green. And it was far too long. I should have broken it into two days.

Please donate for the Stroke Association.

I began by the Thames, at The Globe at 7:30 am and headed downstream on the Thames Path, through changing scenes, very pretty, until the Surrey Docks (or ‘Surrey Quays’ as the area is marketed), the uttermost corner of Surrey, to Greenland Dock and a plush marina. From there I walked a short way west, and turned south, through the edge of Deptford, to New Cross Gate and south (finding a pleasant urban park on the way), and on, and on through residential streets on or close by the county border with Kent to the east.

The suburb starts early. All this was developed as a swelling town spreading south with the railway, regardless of county boundaries. A well set church was putting a rack of clothes out – whether because are the surrounding area were built by the Haberdashers’ Company or by convenience I am not sure.

The first landmark I came to mid-morning was Honor Oak: a sudden woodland breaking the suburbanity. I climbed One Tree Hill to a ridge summounted by the Oak of Honor itself – planted where the original stood, which once shaded Queen Elizabeth I, and marked the county border.

Descending, I followed a Green Chain walk through the gorgeous grounds of the Horniman Museum, and then an unexpected woodland of Dulwich and Sydenham Commons, and out onto roads again to Crystal Palace Park for a lunch stop.

The Green Chain routes are a good addition to suburban landscape, linking parks and spots of wood and green – I would have followed them more closely, but the distance I had earmarked for Day 1 was ridiculously far so I cut out diversions, and kept closer to the county border – anyone following might better enjoy is by using the Green Chain.

Through the long streets of Penge (the Surrey side of the town) and out to South Norwood Park, and my first encounter with the Croydon tram system. (Two pleasant, encouraging conversations here about what I am doing.) It became a bit anonymous after this, looping through the tram lines and following a green chain line down to Shirley, where surely I would reach the and of the conurbation?

I did indeed emerge all of a sudden, to descend a long hill to Addington. A pleasant, if almost entirely residential village. Rather dehydrated by then, I dropped in at the Harvester. I also found that overuse of the Ordnance Survey tracking app (an excellent tool, with the Premium subscruption) had drianed my battery to zero. Back to paper maps from hereon in.

The distance yet to go was concerning, so I crossed the A-road and powered through New Addington (residential development for decanting from the towns – nothing to speak of except admiration for the tram system serving the place) and out the other side suddently into wild Surrey.

At this point I went wrong. I found the Tandridge Border Walk (which should have led me to my destination, and supplied the whole of the Day 2 walk) but had a moment of doubt and went past, arriving at a very nice rural pub, the White Bear, where a waiter was performing table-top conjuring for the amusiement of customers, and my tale of travel was met open-mouthed as another amusement. At least I had identified my location, but it was getting dark as I set off down the lane.

Basically, I messed that last section up. I promised to walk the route I had marked, following the Tandridge Border Walk, so I will go back and some point and walk the last section properly, and I will write it up. Somehow, anyway, in the dusk and with horribly aching feet, I walked down Clacket Lane and to the eponymous service station to my night’s rest.

Please donate for the Stroke Association.

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Surrey About It All 1.1: This wooden O

I am outside Shakespeare’s Globe at 7:30 in the morning, about to set off. May we cram within this wooden O the vasty fields of Surrey? No, but I will draw a much bigger ‘O’ that will; about the county’s border.

Here by the Thames, the Bard built his theatre, of which the building beside me is a wonderful recreation, outside the puritan censure of London on the free fields of the Surrey bank, and following that tradition, the bankside here is marked with theatres, television studios, galleries and all sorts.

The spot where I stand is the cradle of culture that now laps the world, and Surrey can be proud of it. It is why I chose this as a starting point

Right now though, I am chilly and keen to get going.

Thus with imagined wing our swift scene flies
In motion of no less celerity
Than that of thought…

Please donate for the Stroke Association.

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Surrey About It All – it’s on

The Surrey Border Path was always a challenge, but next week I am setting off, walking all around Surrey’s border, to forge a new route and to support the work of the Stroke Association.

The route is planned, the overnight accommodation is booked. The stages will be long, but over a series of weekends, I will go all around the county, checking that it is stil there. A county three hundred years older than England itself must have a fine solidity, whatever has been done to its fields by generations of rapacious builders.

I start by The Globe in Southwark on Saturday morning (5 September 2026), down the Thames a short way to the Surrey Docks, then south through the suburbs along the edge of Kent – the historic counties are what count here and not Whitehall inventions. Two days’ walking should bring me to the south-eastern corner of the county, where Surrey, Kent and Sussex meet, to turn west.

Don’t worry about wishing me luck: just donate.

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